Lily Tarn, Loughrigg, Ambleside.

After several days of very rainy weather (and more to come as it happened) it was lovely to have a dry day off work. It was late afternoon when I set off through Rothay Park and up Loughrigg. I actually had a reason for going but more of that later.

Looking over Ambleside from Loughrigg

The village soon appears below you as you climb higher with great views towards Wansfell. The spire of St Mary’s Church dominating the foreground.

Fairfield Horseshoe from Loughrigg

To the left Fairfield Horseshoe, and reaching Todd Crag at the top of Loughrigg, Lake Windermere stretches before you.

Windermere from Loughrigg

Waterhead Bay where the steamers sail down the lake (or mere to be correct) can be seen clearly. The Ambleside YHA building on the shore must be one of the most idyllic settings for a YHA there could be.

Waterhead from Loughrigg Fell

Anyway, now we reach the reason for my climb up Loughrigg. National Trust have been doing excavations at Galava Roman Fort with volunteers and I thought I might be able to zoom in and see what they were up to from above.

Galava Fort Ambleside

Situated in Borrans Field, the fort dates back to AD79. I will take a look at ground level soon and report back, but for now it was onwards and upwards.

Loughrigg Ambleside

Once you get to the top of Loughrigg it is a bit like a rabbit warren of routes, but I was heading in the direction of Lily Tarn as the lilies are in flower from late June to early September.

Lily Tarn, Loughrigg

Peaceful and beautiful, no one around in the height of the school holidays. You don’t have to go far even in the centre of the Lake District to find solitude. Below, Ambleside was heaving, but up here, a world apart.

Jack Croft's Pond Lowther Estate.

I didn’t really know what to expect, but on arrival it was amazing to see how close we were going to be able to get to see the restoration the craftsmen and women were doing.

Lowther Castle

I decided to take a wander round the grounds. There were several trails to follow but I had read about Jack Croft’s pond, so headed that way first.

Interesting features.

Everywhere you looked there were interesting features from a time gone by. The castle and gardens have laid abandoned for 70 years and are open for the first time since 1938. It is exciting to think what will be discovered. With more than 130 acres of garden I am sure there will be more than a few surprises.

Mushrooms. Lowther Estate.

Not only were there interesting man made features, but an abundance of natural features too. I hear that the red squirrels are making a comeback which is great news.

Jack Croft's Pond

Imagine my surprise on reaching Jack Croft’s pond when I discovered all the beautiful yellow iris in bloom.

Iris. Lowther Estate

The reflections of yellow iris and purple rhododendron on the water were gorgeous, if ever a pool was made for wild swimming it was this!

Lovely reflections

There was a little log cabin situated at the end of the pond, which must have been a wonderful place to sit and contemplate the view.

Log cabin. Lowther

Dragging myself away I headed through the woods to the limestone escarpment which had breathtaking views of the surrounding area.

View from the estate

Over the years a veritable roll call of famous names have worked at Lowther. These include, Turner, Wordsworth and Lancelot “Capability” Brown.

Scented Garden Lowther

Throughout the grounds signs had been placed so that you could establish where the various areas of the garden had been. Some were easy to guess, like this scented garden area as you really could smell the flowers.

Garden at Lowther

Some areas were slightly more difficult to work out. I had convinced myself this was the Japanese garden but it appeared to be the Rock garden.

A surprise round every corner

Time was getting on so I made my way back to the house. There was a useful board showing the schedule of restoration.

Lowther Castle restoration

The workers had left but it was interesting to view what will become a very interesting visitor attraction on the edge of the Lake District. With restored castle ruins, gardens, a stable courtyard with shopping, eating and accommodation, gallery and lawns to hold events on.

Lowther Castle

The castle as it remains today was completed in 1816. It will be lovely to see it being restored after a chequered past which included being used to test secret tank weapons in the Second World War, and a chicken farm!

Grand Entrance Hall

So for an interesting day out, why not bring a picnic, wander the grounds and be one of the first to see this building flourish. With an estimate of opening in Spring 2012 there is obviously still a lot of work to do, and I think the gardens will always be a work in progress but it really is well worth a visit.

Lowther Castle

Harmonic Fields Birkrigg Common

Having spent most of the day at Holker Garden Festival, always one of my favourite events, we had intended just swinging by Birkrigg Common to see Harmonic Fields, before heading home.

Harmonic Fields

I should have known better! Having seen every production that Lakes Alive have put on it should have dawned on me by where this was being held, that we were in for another treat. An audio visual treat at that.

Harmonic Fields

A gentle tinkling noise could be heard in the distance when we arrived. It was the most glorious sunny day and as we headed up the hill we spotted a figure walking along the ridge.

Bamboo pipes Harmonic Fields

Just beyond, a row of bamboo pipes. Winding our way through them we could not believe the sight before us. 500 hand crafted Aeolian wind-powered instruments, set against the stunning backdrop of the Furness Peninsula and Morecambe Bay in one direction, and Black Coombe, Coniston Fells in the other direction. French arts company Lieux Publics had spent the previous week installing this musical and visual extravaganza and had certainly picked the perfect spot.

Stunning setting for Harmonic Fields

Having left the hustle and bustle of Holker Garden Festival it was all too easy to flop into one of the conveniently situated deck chairs and just switch off. Sitting in the sunshine with a gentle wind blowing through the instruments it was easy to drift into an almost zen like state.

Harmonic Fields

Instruments included cellos, strings, flutes, drums and harps, sirens and gongs all powered by the prevailing wind. Each a letter of the alphabet depicting a particular type of  wind from around the world. Z = Zephyr for instance.

A perfect sound. Harmonic Fields

Unfortunately it is not a permanent installation, it would be so good to be able to come and listen to the various sounds in different weathers and at different times of day.

What a setting! Harmonic Fields

Interestingly the artistic director Pierre Sauvageot said he was inspired to create Harmonic Fields because of all the noise he hears outside his studio in busy Marseille. He wanted to discover what the sound of the landscape would be.

Wind powered instruments

The next place that Harmonic Fields is heading to is New York. The temptation to follow it round the World is very strong, it was that compelling!

Cellos and Drums Harmonic Fields

One thing is for sure. When Harmonic Fields leaves Birkrigg Common I will never again be able to visit without listening to the landscape.

Hoad Monument from Birkrigg Common

Thank you Lakes Alive, Lieux Publics and Pierre Sauvageot.

Harmonic Fields Birkrigg Common June 2011

Reflections. St. Mary's Church Wreay

Wreay is a West Cumbrian village situated on the Petteril River about 5 miles South of Carlisle. Wreay being old Norse for “secluded nook or corner of land”.

Wreay Village Noticeboard

St. Mary’s Church was designed and built by Sarah Losh as a memorial to her sister. It is a simple Basilica Church influenced by Italian and French Romanesque Churches that Sarah visited on her European Grand Tour.

St. Mary's Church Wreay

I had no idea what to expect and was amazed by all the symbolism and pattern inside and out.  I should have got a clue from the door design. Arrows being a symbol of death.

Door detail St. Mary's Church Wreay

I had read a bit about the church before I went so knew it predated the Arts and Crafts period by about 50 years, Sarah was obviously ahead of her time as there were many similarities.

Alabaster Font. St. Mary's Church Wreay

Just inside the door was an alabaster font. Covered with silvered glass and lotus flowers, it was carved by Sarah’s uncle.

Interior St. Mary's Church Wreay

Built between 1840 and 1842 the church is full of symbolism showing the conflict between light and darkness, life and death.

Roof detail. St. Mary's Church Wreay

Dante Gabriel Rossetti visited the church in 1869 and wrote to his mother and Jane Morris about the “extraordinary architectural works by Sarah Losh”.

Wall detail St. Mary's Church Wreay

Rossetti thought her building so advanced that he expressed the wish that Philip Webb, designer of William Morris’s Red House should come to Wreay to see it.

Wall detail

Certainly as a textile designer I was finding plenty to be fascinated by.

Stained glass window. St. Mary's Wreay

Pine cones were another symbol that kept cropping up in the building. A symbol of eternal life. The sun was streaming in through the windows, and a gentleman who  I had been talking to had told me that first thing in the morning was a great time to visit as the light was amazing then, so I resolved to return.

Candle Holder

The outside of the building is interesting too.

St. Mary's Church Wreay

I love gargoyles and there were several here, crocodile, alligator, serpent and tortoise.

Gargoyle St. Mary's Church Wreay

Situated in the grounds is the Losh family burial plot and a replica of the Bewcastle Cross.

Replica of Bewcastle Cross

While I was standing looking at the outside an elderly lady came and chatted to me. She had worshipped at the church for over 40 years and was able to tell me a lot of it’s history too.

Exterior of Wreay Church

The two statues in the photograph were covered with mesh because the birds were nesting in them and she also told me the eagle had been replaced, but it seemed to have weathered into the building well.

If you are visiting the church the Plough Inn situated nearby is a very good pub with excellent food, and an amazingly good vegetarian selection too. Have also heard the Sunday roasts are a popular favourite as well, booking advisable. Wreay Woods nearby are a good choice to walk off your meal. Managed by Cumbria Wildlife Trust it is a mass of bluebells in the Spring, and keep your eyes open for the red squirrels.

A host of golden daffodils at Brockhole

It’s somewhere that all the family can enjoy and a great source of information about what’s on in the Lake District. Situated on the A591 between Windermere and Ambleside it’s easily accessible, plenty of parking, and that is all you pay for, parking. No entry charge to the house and exhibitions. The 555 bus stops right outside too if you are travelling by public transport.

Lake District Visitor Centre Brockhole

I had been busy all day and it was mid afternoon, so I just wanted a quick trip out and a walk in the sunshine, but I also wanted to know about an upcoming event so Brockhole fitted the bill.

Brockhole Pier to Langdale Pikes

What a fantastic view, I walked through the gardens to see how the new pier they were building was coming on. It was still being built but from Summer 2011 it will be possible to get one of the Windermere steamers right to Brockhole. For the time being I was happy just to sit and take in the view from the existing pier.

View from Brockhole

There is a brilliant adventure playground situated in the grounds and when my son was little we spent many a happy hour there. We even hired a room and had his Birthday party here once. Brockhole also puts on events and something new for this year is a dawn stroll to find out more about the birds in the garden. I think I might be tempted with that. They also do Summer Sunday music on the terrace which is a lovely event.

Across the meadow to Brockhole

I walked back to the main building and what a brilliant display in front of me.

A host of golden daffodils at Brockhole

The display of daffodils was stunning in the sunshine. It was such a gorgeous day so early in the year. The house and gardens date back to the 1890′s and the garden was designed by Thomas Mawson. It was home to the Gaddum family who were related to Beatrix Potter.

Monkey Puzzle Tree Brockhole

You could almost imagine this monkey puzzle tree was a palm tree! Time for a cup of tea, and that is something else that is a pleasure at Brockhole. Tea on the terrace.

A seat with a view. Brockhole

Brockhole has a great shop with lots of Cumbrian products, books, maps and gifts. There are lots of leaflets to pick up about events, and things like the geology of the Lake District. I always discover something new I didn’t know when I visit.

Brockhole Lake District Visitor Centre

So if your are visiting the Lake District it’s always worth stopping off for a visit to Brockhole. When it’s raining there are exhibitions to look at, when the sun shines, well it’s just a wonderful place to be.

You Are Here - Eden Valley

Starting in Little Salkeld in the Eden Valley the sign to Lacys Caves points down a farm lane, just past the farm turn to your right and it’s a virtually traffic free walk from then on.

Farm at Little Salkeld

It’s a straight metalled road for a bit which under normal circumstances might be boring but the fact it runs alongside the Settle Carlisle Railway line means you never know what will come along. In this case a logging train.

Settle to Carlisle Line

As you walk along look for the wonderful ceramic art done by Michael Eden (appropriate name) and the local schools. The map shows you where you are going.

Armathwaite and area ceramic map

When you reach the River Eden and it’s quite common to see lots of fishermen on the banks at this point.

River Eden

Evidence of the old Long Meg Gypsum mine is visible as you walk along beside the river bank. A disused signal box which controlled the branch line to the Settle and Carlisle railway, various lengths of tracks and pulleys.

Lacys Caves Eden Valley

Soon you will see Lacys caves in the distance. Unfortunately it was a bit grey on the day we were there. When the sky is blue with the red sandstone colours against it, it makes a wonderful sight. Also particularly spectacular when the bluebells are in flower. Lacys caves stem back to the times in the 18th Century when there was a fashion for building romantic grottos and caves in the grounds of grand homes.

Entrance to Lacys Caves

These were made by Lieutenant Colonel Samuel Lacy of Salkeld Hall and used for entertaining guests. He even had gardens of rhododendrons planted around the caves.

View up river from Lacys Caves

The caves consist of five sandstone chambers. If you use the camera flash you can see all the visitors initials scratched into the sandstone over the years.

Interior Lacys Caves

Colonel Lacy was a bit of a character. He once tried to blow up Long Meg which is part of the nearby stone circle, with gunpowder. A violent thunderstorm started up and was interpreted by his workers as supernatural intervention, so Meg remained as she is today.

Double Arch Lacys Caves

You can do this walk as a circular route taking in Long Meg stone circle but I returned the way we had come.

River Eden

Another thing to look for as you walk along this route are the little bronze panels by Pip Hall. There are 84 in total situated along 14 walks in the Eden Valley.

Bronze Panel by Pip Hall. Eden Valley

They are based on linocuts, it’s a good idea if you have children with you to take a wax crayon and paper so they can do a rubbing to take home.

Lost shoe

Speaking of taking things home. I wonder if the owner of this lost shoe I found when I got back to the car, got into trouble for not arriving back with it. I hope they didn’t have to hop all the way home!.

Little Salkeld Watermill Tearoom

I was wandering about trying to work up some enthusiasm to get out and about, or should I just stay at home and make some bread? Ah no flour! I know where to go. The Eden Valley was somewhere I hadn’t been for a while, so off over Kirkstone Pass in the rain I went.

Kirkstone Pass towards Brotherswater

I was heading to Little Salkeld which has a Working Watermill, housing a tearoom, Bakery, and Shop.

Millers Guild sign, Little Salkeld.

This is a lovely little jumbled collection of buildings, painted in bright colours. The tearoom is first class serving organic vegetarian food. I can highly recommend the homemade soup with a selection of breads baked on the premises.

Mill Stones Little Salkeld

I was here to buy some stoneground wholewheat flour from the shop, but it’s always worth a little wander round the buildings, and a look at the Mill race.

Mill race Little Salkeld

The red sandstone cottages of Little Salkeld date back to about 1745 and have lots of little quirky features.

Quirky window Little Salkeld

The Mill is open to the public and can be done as a self guided tour, or accompanied depending on which you prefer.

Little Salkeld Watermill

They also run bread making courses as well, and there is also a nice little shop to browse in. Someone was taking advantage of a break in the weather to get their drying done in among the snowdrops.

Washing and snowdrops

However there wasn’t much gardening going on…..

Potting Shed Little Salkeld

Time for a wander up the road for a bit of exercise. Situated not far away is a stone circle second only in size to Stonehenge, Long Meg and her daughters.

Long Meg and her Daughters

Dating from 1500 BC Long Meg is made from the local red sandstone and the boulders are made of granite. Various myths abound about the circle. Long Meg was apparently a witch who with her daughters was turned to stone for profanity (in the form of dancing about) on the Sabbath.

Long Meg and Nature Valley

Long Meg watched over me as I enjoyed my snack courtesy of Nature Valley who had very kindly sent me an incentive to keep blogging, and cup of coffee. She is marked with megalithic art in the form of cup and ring markings, but I was careful not to leave any flask marks on her daughters! Refreshments over it was time to do what I always do when here.

Long Meg stone circle

Apparently if you walk round all the stones and count them correctly, then put your ear to Long Meg you can hear her whisper. Well all I can say is I always knew I was rubbish at maths, because not once has she ever whispered anything to me. Maybe one day….

.

Enjoying Derwentwater

I had also been trying to think of a little level walk to take my nephew on when he visited so this walk ticked the boxes for that. Romantic walks, walks with a pram or wheelchair, you can’t beat this one.

Rowing Boats, Derwentwater.

You can park by the Theatre at the Lake in Keswick. Then walk down to where the Keswick Launch sets off from.

Keswick Launch Sign

If you have children with you it will be difficult to get them past the numerous ducks waddling around, however maybe  take some bread with you and bribe the kids they can feed the ducks on the way back!

Ducks on Derwentwater

The walk goes along the side of Derwentwater to Friars Crag which was one of the key settings in the book “Swallows and Amazons” by Arthur Ransome. In the book this was “Darien” where the children spent their first camping adventure, so that might keep the older children interested too.

Seagull at Derwentwater

It doesn’t take long to walk to the viewpoint, and keep a look out for the Keswick Launch which stops at various places on the lake.

Keswick Launch

All of a sudden you come out of the woods and here before you is Friar’s Crag, and what a view!

Derwentwater

The Jaws of Borrowdale and Cat Bells in the distance, and a seat conveniently placed to enjoy the view.

Boating on Derwentwater

Situated just behind in the woods is a memorial to John Ruskin

Memorial to John Ruskin

Inscribed on it are the words”The first thing which I remember as an event in my life was being taken by my nurse to the brow of Friar’s Crag on Derwent Water”.

Writing on Ruskin Memorial

You can go down to the side to Calfclose Bay. This is a great place for a picnic in the Summer.

Calfclose Bay Derwentwater

There are four islands on Derwentwater. Derwent, Lords, Rampsholme and St. Herbert’s Island. Friar’s Crag was so called because it was said to be where the monks left from to go on pilgrimage to St. Herbert’s Island where a hermit used to live.

Derwentwater a nice place for a picnic

You can carry on and come back through Cockshott Woods but I prefer to return the way I came, after all we still have to feed the ducks!

Derwentwater

Still great views on the way back

Derwentwater

and look who we found having a brilliant time in the water

Enjoying the water

So that’s us back where we began after a leisurely stroll.

Boats on Derwentwater

Now for me no visit to Keswick would be complete without a visit to one of my favourite places to eat, so off in to the centre of Keswick to finish the day off at the fabulous Lakeland Pedlar. A bike shop for all you mountain bikers and also a wholefood cafe with fantastic vegetarian selection.

Lakeland Pedlar

High Dam Finsthwaite

The first thing you notice when you park in the small car park at the start of the walk is the reference to the old industry of bobbin making. A large Bobbin with a relief map gives an insight into the history of the area.

Large Bobbin Map

Inscribed around it are the following words. “This is the water that turned the wheel that spins the lathe, that shapes the wood, to make the bobbin, to wind the thread, that wove the wealth of Lancashire. These are the trees, that cut by man, will sprout again, feed Stott Mill, to make the bobbins to earn the pay, that fed the folk of Finsthwaite”. Stott Park Bobbin Mill is situated close by and open to the public.

High Dam Map

Leave the car park and take the path to the left.

Path to High Dam

Trails are well marked and this follows the route of the yellow arrows if you want to try it yourself. A short walk uphill and a first glimpse of Low Dam.

Low Dam Finsthwaite

Finsthwaite Tarn was made into the higher and lower dams to power a 32 feet water wheel at the bobbin mill which at one time employed as many as 250 workers. Carry on up the path to High Dam.

High Dam

While it must be said, Autumn is my favourite time of year here it can’t be denied that the reflections can be wonderful at any time of year.

Reflections High Dam Finsthwaite

Cross over the dam to walk round. The tarn is surrounded with Larches, Scots Pines, Oak and Birch trees.

High Dam View

The sun was starting to come out although there were still icy patches on the far side of the tarn.

Bridge at High Dam

Great views all round the tarn, and no one about even though it was almost mid day. Tarn Hows is another similar place in the area which is often very busy, so this is a hidden gem. Onwards and upwards.

Path at High Dam

It isn’t long till you reach the highest part of the walk with a conveniently placed seat to take a rest and enjoy the view. Having said this, it is quite overgrown here so in my opinion not the best place to view the dam.

View over High Dam

Downhill from now on and a short stretch of meadow to cross at the end. This bit can be quite muddy at times.

Path round High Dam

This brings you to a short stretch of woodland, and back to the dam.

Winter sunshine High Dam

Looking over to where we have just walked.

High Dam

I would recommend this walk especially for families and it’s a brilliant place for dog walking.

High Dam Finsthwaite view

Now up until now I hadn’t seen a single soul, however I was not to be disappointed. I can safely say that I have never visited here and not seen someone sitting with a flask of coffee at the little bridge at the start of the walk, and right enough, there they were enjoying the view.

Enjoying the view. High Dam

From the car park, round the dam and back takes about an hour. At the moment the car park is free however there is talk of charging to park here.

Other things of interest nearby.

Stott Park Bobbin Mill. Owned by English Heritage. Created the wooden Bobbins vital to the Lancashire weaving and spinning Industries.

St.Peters Church Finsthwaite. Amazing painted vaulted ceiling. Situated in the grave yard is the grave of Clementina Sobieski Douglas “The Cumbrian Princess” reported to be the daughter of Bonnie Prince Charlie.

Winter Light, Stockghyll Lane, Ambleside

Starting at the back of Barclays Bank walk up the lane and enter at the bottom gate which takes you in to the woodland surrounding the falls. There are picnic tables and disabled access further up the lane at the top gate.

Victorian Circular Gate

You can do a circular walk round the falls, but why not go through the top circular gate and head up to your left in the direction of Wansfell. This is a nice walk at any time of year, but really lovely when it has been snowing.

Towards the Langdales

As you walk up the lane you come to this bench with stunning views of Loughrigg and the Langdale Pikes. Opposite is the path to climb up Wansfell, with stunning views of Windermere, and on to the Troutbeck Valley.

Wansfell Ambleside

The lane is not used much by traffic so is a lovely peaceful walk up the Stockghyll Valley.

Stockghyll Lane

On the day I was there there were lots of icicles forming on a disused barn.

Icicles

Carry on up and then you have a choice to either cut across the valley past Round Hill Farm and back down Kirkstone Pass, or carry on up the lane past Grove Farm Holiday Cottages, eventually this takes you out at the top of Kirkstone Pass, conveniently beside the Kirkstone Pass Inn.

Looking up Kirkstone Pass

Perhaps a break for a pint of local ale and locally sourced bar snack, before heading back down the lane.

Stockghyll Lane

Wrap up warm in the winter as it can be quite open and windswept at bits.

windswept hillside

This whole walk is on the level with a few up hill sections, but just bear in mind it’s all downhill on the way back!

Berries and Snow

As you walk down the views are stunning in all directions, it can be particularly beautiful at sunset.

Sunset Stockghyll Lane

This would make a nice family Christmas or Boxing Day walk.

Christmas berries

And if it doesn’t snow this Christmas (although it’s looking increasingly likely) well, you could always make your own!

Instant snow